It's been a few years since we have offered anything from Robert-Denogent, but with the nice press the wines have received recently, it's good to reconnect with this serious Maconnaise producer. The wines here have been some of the most impressive to come from Pouilly-Fuisse made in a style that goes against the grain for the region but finds inspiration from greats like Selosse, Raveneau, Thomas Pico, and even Coche-Dury. The not-so-secret here is the extended elevage in barrel along with the old vines, in this case over 80 years old. The vineyards are farmed organically and hand-harvested before a very slow pressing that takes a few hours before transferring to mostly older barrels for long natural fermentation that lasts close to a year before aging for another two. The wine is left to age on the lees the entire time, and because of the extended time in barrel, they must be topped off a few times each year so the barrels don't get too low. La Croix is a unique site here as it is the only vineyard that is planted on Blue Schist, whereas most are on limestone of some sort. This is a complex, dense, and textural wine that shows the richer side of the Macon without losing the incredible minerality or acidity that these wines should have. We love the 2017 vintage for White Burgundy and this is best rendition of this cuvee yet. It is truly a magical bottle with a little something that all types of Chardonnay drinkers can enjoy and comes highly recommended.
Wine Advocate 94+ points! "The fabulous 2017 Pouilly-Fuissé La Croix Vieilles Vignes wafts from the glass with aromas of yellow orchard fruit, warm bread, vanilla pod, citrus zest and spices. Full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's deep and concentrated, with lively acids and long, saline finish. It's produced from blue schist soils."
Allen Meadows 93 points! "There is plenty of phenolic character (think olive oil nuances) to the notably ripe aromas of yellow-fleshed fruit, and in particular, apricot and peach, all of which is trimmed in just enough wood to notice. Once again there is excellent size, weight and richness to the large-scaled flavors that exude evident minerality on the firm, long and powerful finish. This won't win any accolades for finesse or refinement, but it is undoubtedly impressive in its imposing fashion."