2019 Bodegas El Paraguas El Paraguas Atlántico$29.99
This was wine an amazing revelation after tasting it this week. Wine journalist and winemaker, Marcial Pita, and award-winning and fourth-generation enologist and viticulturist, Felicísimo Pereira, met while sitting in panels for Spanish wine competitions. They found that they often picked the same wines as the best of each show and decided to team up in 2007 to begin their project. In 2011, they finally released the first vintage of their Ribeiro-based garage winery, Bodegas Paraguas, and quickly caught the attention of the region and many of the top sommeliers who worked in Spain’s Michelin-starred restaurants.
Their vineyards in Ribierio are worked as sustainably as possible and this wine El Parguas Atlántico is comprised of 92 % Trexiadura and 8% Albarino from three high elevation parcels with 45% of the grapes coming from vines planted in 1892! The vineyards are composed of granite and schist, indigenous yeasts are employed, the wine doesn’t go through Malo-lactic fermentation and is aged 9 months in 600-liter oak barrels.
The Treixadura grape has roots back in Christopher Columbus's days where bottles of this varietal were part of his ship’s cargo.
Unfortunately, the Treixadura grape can be utterly average in the wrong terroir (and in the wrong hands), one of the reasons why it never gained popularity until now. This sleeping giant of white wines from Spain and its magic is best demonstrated in the Ribiero part of the country, where the wine-making technology of the up-and-coming wineries has finally advanced.
The aromatics of this wine a quite memorizing and reminiscent of a great Chablis.
Savory, Honey, Sweet Citrus, Stone Fruit orchard blossoms, Sweet Green, and Dried Herbs, with pungent minerality soar from the glass. The palate is focused and pure with stone fruits flavors, saline, flint, and tons of dry extract on the whiplash of a finish. This is an extraordinary white wine that needs to be tried by the European white wine lover and I will be squireling away a few bottles to watch the evolution over the next couple of years!