We were offered a very limited amount of Domaine du Clos de Fees extremely rare old vine white wine after the huge Success of the Sorcieres offer a few days back. In a forgotten part of Rousillon is the nearly uninhabited corner of the Agly Valley, where the winds whip almost every day of the year is where Domaine du Clos de Fees calls home. This landscape pushes up against the Pyrenees mountains where the steep blue cliffs of the Vingrau overlook this unknown Domaine. This project started with a single man looking to move from the restaurant and consumer side of wine to the actual production when he landed on this garrigue desert landscape home to ancient plantings of Syrah, Grenache, and Carignan, some of which are well over 100 years old. The planting style here is like a goblet or bush style with no trellising, and many of the vines grow horizontally from the constant bombardment of wind. Many of the older vines will sometimes only produce two bunches of berries, making yields very low.
The Vieilles Vignes blanc comes from the oldest vines on the property, Granache Blanc (90%) and Grenache Gris (10%) that are well over 100 years old. The vines are planted on limestone-clay soils at 200-400 meters of elevation. After harvest, the grapes were destemmed and pressed at very low and slow pressure before a prolonged fermentation carried out in stainless steel for the Grenache Blanc and old barrels for the Grenache Gris. A bit of battonage is carried out, and aging on the lees lasts for 5 to 8 months. Rich and powerful yet so elegant and complex with stunning notes of white flowers, fresh peach, pear, quince, and minerals. The palate has an incredible texture with energy and tons of dry extract on the lingering finish that draws you back for more. This is a stunning and age-worthy wine that blows away any Chateneauf du Pape Blanc at half the price that comes highly recommended.