Here is another beautiful Champagne from Laherte Freres, who continues to fashion some of the region's top wines. The Ultratradition has three different versions, Extra Brut, Blanc de Blancs, and Brut. In our opinion, the Brut is the sweet spot, showing off the gorgeous Pinot Meunier Fruit with a little more sugar that, as Galloni mentions below, adds another dimension to this already fantastic Champagne. Laherte Freres is known for its beautiful Pinot Meunier, and in this Cuvee, it makes up 60% of the blend, followed by 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir of that. This is based on the 2017 vintage, with 40% coming from reserve wine from the 2015 and 2016 vintages. All of the vines for this Cuvee are an average 30 years old and grown using excellent sustainable farming practices, and are completely hand-harvested. Fermentation takes place in a mixture of vats, foudre, and barrels seeing a partial malolactic fermentation and disgorged by hand with a dosage of 7 g/l. The Brut Ultratradition is an impressive Champagne that towers from the glass with a multitude of orchard fruit, spice, wild herbs, and flower. It is so fresh and expressive, giving a great view of the lovely minerality. The Ultratradition brut is a knockout at this level made by one of the most significant growers of our time, appealing to a broad spectrum of Champagne drinkers and we can't recommend it enough.
Antonio Galloni 91 points! "The NV Brut Ultradition is the same wine as the Extra Brut version, but with higher dosage. That added touch of sugar seems to bring out an extra dimension of freshness and cut, which works so well for this Meunier-based Champagne. Apricot, lemon confit, dried flowers and spice are all nicely lifted. The higher dosage is not just felt in the wine's flavor profile, it also comes through in a more translucent overall expression. This release is based on 2017, with reserve wines from 2016 and 2015, done mostly in neutral oak. Dosage is 7.5 grams per liter. Disgorged: December, 2019."