Here is a new producer from Alto Adige that we are very excited to introduce. Martin Gojer took over his family’s farm in 2009 in his late 20s, focusing immediately on fermenting his wines, rather than selling the grapes like generations past. Since then, Martin has been on a quest to find his own more profound and exhilarating style. He is strictly working Biodynamically and Organically using native yeasts in the hills overlooking Bolzano, on the opposite (north) side of the Santa Maddalena zone, where it is much colder and windier. Here the soils are composed of a mixture of clay, sand, and morainal (glacial) deposits. For Martin, Organic is not enough- reducing the use of copper, sulfur, and other substances through biodynamic and old fashion common sense is also key.
The Lagrein grape variety is one of the principal red grape varieties of Alto Adige, along with Schiava. Martin’s vines are an average of 50 years old, with some much older than that, and are trained in the classic local pergola to give the fruit proper protection from the sun, as it gets quite hot in Bolzano while promoting a long ripening season. Good Lagrein can remind you of Northern Rhone Syrah, though usually a bit higher in acid and perhaps a bit more rustic like Cornas. While there is some innate rusticity, this wine has a real elegance with black cherry, olive, earth, and meatiness with beautiful acidity. It is a remarkable expression of Lagrein, the 2015 vintage has a few years of bottle age and is drinkable now but likely even better with a couple of years of bottle age.