One of the old guard producers of Volnay, Joseph Voillot, is an incredibly classic address that has given the world some fantastic wines over the decades. A small address run by Etienne Chaix, grandson of Joseph and his uncle Jean-Pierre Charlot, has recently taken on fewer responsibilities at the Domaine. This Domaine has been at the forefront of the Cote de Beaune for six generations, with 8 hectares in 13 great sites. Farming utilizing lutte raisonnee or a reasoned approach that always considers the environment. Many years ago, we were able to taste with Jean-Pierre Charlot at the Domaine, and it was a great experience that led to him opening many old untouched bottles from the Voillot cellar. We recently tried a bottle of 1978 Champans which is arguably Voillots best cru, and it was stunning. 2020 looks to be one of the best buy premier crus of the vintage, with pricing staying equal to the past few vintages. Voillots Champans comes from some old vines with plantings dating before world war two, in 1934, along with 1971 and 1985. It is sourced from the lower slope of the hill and planted on shallow topsoil with Oxfordian limestone beneath. Champans tends to be a powerful wine showing an excellent core of fruit with nice minerality and classic Volnay acidity and structure. It is a wine that will prove its greatness in time and is an excellent example from Voillot not to miss this vintage.
John Gilman 92+ points! "The 2020 Champans from Domaine Voillot seems just a tad riper than the Fremiets this year, as there is a touch of black raspberry that creeps into the black fruity nose of cassis, blackberry, coffee bean, a lovely base of dark soil tones, woodsmoke, pigeon and a gentle base of new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and more obviously structured out of the blocks than the Fremiets, with chewy tannins, good focus and grip and a long, tangy and fairly powerful finish. This seems likely to be a bit more a stylistic creature of its vintage than the Fremiets, but it is very early days for both wines and it will be interesting to see how they evolve with the bottle age that both will require before they blossom."