One of our favorite Albarinos, Bodegas del Palacio de Fefiñanes, is a historic estate founded in the 17th century focusing purely on one grape, Albarino. They are pioneers in the production and the commercialization of Albarino, sourcing from centuries-old vineyards enclosed by the estate walls and made with the traditional methods of Galacia.
Albariño de Fefiñanes is the estate's flagship wine and first saw its production in the late 1920s, bursting onto the scene and winning the Barcelona Trade Fair in 1930, which was a big deal for a newcomer.
2021 is the best example we have ever tasted of this wine. It is a serious and intense example that is tightly wound and structured with soaring aromatics and shows excellent fruit of melon, apple, citrus, and some beautiful herbal and floral nuances that further adds to the complexity here with lively acidity. But most of all, this wine shows an excellent presence of minerals, a distinct characteristic of Albariño from the Chambados sub-region with saline and rocky minerality. It is not far off from an excellent Chablis and would be a perfect wine for those that love focused and mineral-driven white wines. This is an Albarino we could see aging for a few years in the cellar with a positive outcome, but in its current state, it is so fresh and enjoyable and the perfect pairing with seafood, cheeses, or select Asian dishes. Truly an incredible effort for the money and another example that shows just how good the Spanish whites from Galacia are.
Tim Atkin 93 points! One of the textbook Albarinos that delivers the goods, year in year out, this is a very pure expression of the grape, with no lees ageing at all. Sourced from vineyards in the Chambados sub-region, all on decomposed granitesoils, it has lovely pear and lime zest flavors and engaging focus, minerality and stony freshness. Hard to beat at the price!