The 2023 Roc Breïa Chardonnay is another exciting release from Théo Dancer, Vincent Dancer's son and one of Burgundy's most compelling young winemakers today. Théo launched Roc Breïa in 2021 after taking control of a contiguous vineyard in Bray in the cooler northern Mâconnais, aiming to revitalize the soils through organic farming, cover crops, and a more regenerative approach. The Chardonnay is particularly impressive, coming from old vines planted in 1944, 1945, 1976 and 1977, giving the wine tremendous concentration and naturally low yields. Théo vinifies it much as he learned at his father’s domaine, whole-bunch pressing the fruit and fermenting and aging it slowly in large, used 350- to 500-liter barrels so the oak never overwhelms the wine. Despite coming from the Mâconnais, he deliberately labels Roc Breïa as Vin de France, giving himself complete freedom in how he farms, harvests and makes the wine. The 2023 is beautifully energetic and mineral, with white stone fruit, citrus, subtle almond, and a deep chalky character carried by excellent acidity and impressive dry extract. There is real substance here, but also the tension, transparency and precision that have made the Dancer name so sought after in the Côte de Beaune. Roc Breïa is no longer simply an interesting side project—the vineyard is clearly beginning to show its potential, and the 2023 Chardonnay is one of the strongest examples yet of what Théo can achieve in the Mâconnais.