It is rare to find anything carrying the Rouget name at an accessible price, which makes this Crémant de Bourgogne one of the more intriguing bottles in the family’s tiny portfolio. Rouget Père & Fils is the family project of Emmanuel Rouget and his sons Nicolas and Guillaume, continuing the legacy of one of Burgundy’s most revered winemakers and the longtime protégé and successor to the legendary Henri Jayer. While Emmanuel’s Vosne-Romanée, Échezeaux and Cros-Parantoux have become extraordinarily difficult and expensive to obtain, this humble Crémant offers a far easier entry into the Rouget cellar. Produced in the traditional method, made mostly from Chardonnay and given extended aging in bottle on its lees, the wine is bright and precise, with green and golden apple, citrus, and white flowers joined by subtle brioche, almond, and a cool, stony mineral note. The mousse is fine and creamy, while fresh acidity and a lightly saline finish keep everything energetic and exceptionally easy to drink. There is nothing overly ambitious or heavy-handed here, just a beautifully made, distinctly Burgundian sparkling wine with excellent purity and balance. For anyone who loves the wines of Emmanuel Rouget, or wants a serious alternative to Champagne at a much friendlier price, this is a fascinating bottle and one of the few opportunities to drink something from the Rouget family without paying the prices attached to their increasingly unobtainable still wines.