We got a few more cases of the 2023 Clos de la Truffière from Michel Niellon after selling out, and this is one of the most exciting recent examples of a wine that has long ranked among the domaine’s best. Michel Niellon has more than 50 vintages behind him, and with his son-in-law and grandson now working alongside him, the domaine has entered a particularly strong period, with greater precision and consistency across the range. The vineyards are farmed sustainably under lutte raisonnée, and the house style remains unmistakably Niellon: harvesting early to preserve freshness, acidity, and finesse rather than chase excessive richness. Clos de la Truffière comes from a tiny 0.5-hectare walled monopole in the upper portion of Les Chaumées, where shallow limestone-over soils naturally produce a wine of exceptional tension, minerality, and definition. The 2023 vintage gave the domaine beautifully ripe fruit without sacrificing energy, and this is one of the most complete Truffière versions we have tasted, combining citrus and orchard fruit with floral notes, chalky minerality, and a long, focused finish. Compared with many of the more fashionable names in Chassagne-Montrachet, this remains remarkably well priced, and at today's level, it is one of the strongest buys for serious Premier Cru white Burgundy.

Decanter (Charles Curtice MW) 96 points! "Pronounced ripe fruit aromas of lemon peel, nectarine and gooseberry, with an edge of saline minerality. The texture is impressively fresh for the vintage, with a lilting, silky texture, marvellous concentration and great tension on the palate. The grapes are from ancient vines, some more than a century old, planted very high on the slope. This will benefit from a decade in the cellar, but it has the substance to drink for several decades after that."

Jasper Morris 94 points! "Planted just after the First World War. Still in good form without offering high degrees. 12.8% in 2023. A very pale lemon colour. The nose is extremely discreet, but with a sense that there is plenty behind. On the palate this has such a fine backbone, and the fruit extends magically through to a long fine finish, perfect poise and balance."

Burghound 92 points! "Smoky aromas include those of various white-fleshed fruit, citrus rind, crushed fennel and pretty floral top notes. Once again there is excellent punch to the acceptably concentrated flavors that nonetheless display focused power on the moderately austere, clean, very dry and beautifully balanced finale. This won't wow you with its size and weight but it's harmonious and very backward and a wine that should amply repay extended keeping, indeed it's going to need at least a few years first."