These are the last bottles we have of the 2023 Clos de la Maltroie, and it is a beautiful example of why Niellon remains one of our favorite traditional addresses in Chassagne, especially over the past few vintages, when quality has risen. Clos de la Maltroie is one of the domaine’s most important Premier Cru holdings, with roughly one hectare of Chardonnay planted across several generations of vines on clay-limestone soils with iron-rich and silty elements. The wine is raised primarily in barrel, with a modest portion in new oak and a smaller component in stainless steel, giving it both richness and precision without losing the site's mineral character. The 2023 vintage brought generous fruit and texture, but the best wines retained excellent freshness, and this bottling shows that balance particularly well. Citrus, pear, and white stone fruit are joined by floral notes, subtle toast, and crushed limestone, while the palate has excellent depth, energy, and a long, stony finish. There is real Chassagne generosity here, but also enough tension and freshness to keep the wine focused and age-worthy. It is one of the more complete Premier Cru whites in Niellon’s range, and with only the last few bottles remaining, this is a good one to secure before it disappears.

Jasper Morris 92 pts!  A light lemon touch, a little bit of gunflint reduction. A little more character than sometimes, with an interesting white fruit and flesh behind, a very good acid balance, and persistent. A fine result.