Boekenhoutskloof, established in 1776 in South Africa’s Franschhoek Valley, is one of the country’s great historic estates, and we had the opportunity this week to taste through the range with the winery’s ambassador visiting from South Africa. The name translates roughly to “ravine of the Boekenhout,” referring to the indigenous trees found throughout the area, and today the estate is regarded as one of South Africa's leading producers. The 2022 Sémillon is one of the portfolio's gems, produced from three remarkable heritage vineyards planted in 1902, 1936 and 1942. Two are unirrigated bush-vine parcels rooted in the ancient Franschhoek riverbed on alluvial, loam-rich soils, while the 1936 vineyard sits higher in the valley on a steep south-facing slope of decomposed granite and quartz. Some vines have naturally mutated into Sémillon Gris, with thicker skins and a slightly red hue, requiring multiple picking passes for optimal ripeness. A tiny amount of historic Muscat d’Alexandrie planted in 1902 is also included to lift the aromatics. Whole-bunch pressed and spontaneously fermented, the wine is aged for roughly 14 months in a combination of French oak and concrete egg, building remarkable depth and texture while preserving freshness. The aromatics are beautiful, with orchard blossom, white peach and stone fruit joined by citrus, fresh herbs, subtle spice and wet-rock minerality. The palate is deep and pure, yet remarkably ethereal, flowing with precision into a long, saline finish that immediately brings you back for another sip. For us, this belongs in the same conversation as serious white Bordeaux such as Y d’Yquem, and it even recalls the depth and refinement of wines like Haut-Brion Blanc, albeit at a fraction of the price. This is a sensational old-vine Sémillon made from some of the oldest vines in South Africa and gets our highest recommendation.

Decanter ( Julie Sheppard) 95 pts!  This stunning Sém is made from some of South Africa's oldest vines: two vineyards planted in 1902 and 1942 in the ancient Franschhoek riverbed and the La Colline vineyard, planted in 1936 on a slope further up the valley. The blend also contains a small percentage of early-picked Muscat of Alexandria from the 1902 vineyard, to add acidity rather than aromatics. It is skin-fermented and matured in amphora, while the Semillon ages for 14 months in 70% new French oak barriques and 30% in concrete eggs, allowing texture to develop. Such purity and vibrancy to the golden citrus aromatics, with zesty grapefruit and honeyed nuttiness. Complex and concentrated palate, driven by a streak of minerality, with layers of pristine citrus and stone fruit, hints of nuts, apple and chamomile; a touch of salinity too. Textured and long, this will continue to deliver with time in bottle. (Drink between 2025 - 2031)

James Suckling 95 pts!  Creamy and textural, with complex layers and aromas of almond, waxed lemon, thyme, persimmon and fragrant apricot. Cedar, too. Full-bodied but with wonderful freshness. Full of fruit on the palate with a very long finish. From old vines planted in 1902, 1942 and 1936. Vinified 70% in new oak and 30% in concrete egg. Drink or hold.

Wine Advocate (Moncia Larner) 93+ pts! The Boekenhoutskloof 2022 Franschhoek Semillon comes from a plot of old vines, one of the oldest in the Western Cape, planted in 1902. Another vineyard on sandy soils was planted in 1942 and another yet on granite soils in 1956. A tiny percentage of Muscat, just 2% to 3%, is blended in. The Muscat is harvested last and put into clay Tava pots to keep it as neutral as possible. However, it does add a tiny bit of acacia flower and honey. The Semillon is waxy and rich with linseed oil and chamomile. Semillon was planted on the Cape in the 1800s, and it mutated to show a South African personality. This wine is slightly reductive and tight. Although it is coming to market now, give it more time in the cellar. Semillon becomes very gastronomic with time, proprietor Marc Kent says.